One of the best things about staying in various parts of India has been trying and tasting the local cuisine. I understood more deeply on the way that there is a symbiotic relationship between culture and food. Trying new cuisines from a particular region allowed me to appreciate the real flavour and traditions of the place. My tastebuds became familiar with unaccustomed delicacies that encouraged me to explore and value the history associated with the place.
For instance, it was only after staying in southern India I realised that sambar, the quintessential dish, tasted different from state to state. This simple lentil-based stew prepared with vegetables and tamarind can be made in various ways. Sambar is served as 'Pulusu' in Andhra cuisine, though it has always been considered part of Tamil, Karnataka and Kerala cuisines. Each region in South India, Maharashtra and Goa has its own version of sambar; even though the same vegetables are used, the condiments and ingredients, as well as the methods, differ region-wise.
The Problem With Selecting "Worst" Foods
Though a popular food, there are many who may not like the piping hot sambar. But that does not bother the multitude of people - including me - who savour it regularly. Therefore, it was surprising when recently, TasteAtlas, an experiential online guide about the cuisines of the world, sparked controversy by labelling some of the popular and cherished Indian dishes and drinks among the "worst" in the world. Taste being subjective, the list has stirred the cultural sensitivities of Indians.
In the list of 'worst-rated' foods were dishes and drinks like gajjak, jaljeera, thengai sadam, panta bhaat, thandai, achappam, mirchi ka salan, malpua, upma, and aloo baingan, with ratings ranging from 2.7 to 3.2 stars.
In contrast, the same online guide categorised mango lassi, masala chai, butter garlic naan, Amritsari kulcha, butter chicken, Hyderabadi biryani, shahi paneer, chole bhature, tandoori chicken, and korma as best-rated Indian foods. These received ratings from 4.4 to 4.6 stars, depicting a different side of Indian gastronomic brilliance.
However, gourmands are not happy. "The world has moved beyond butter chicken! Indian cuisine has gained global recognition, with popular dishes like samosas, naan bread, dosas, idlis, vadas, biryanis, curries, kebabs, and sweet treats like gulab jamun and jalebi. Regional specialities like momos and thukpa from the Northeast, and chaat items like golgappas and papdi chaat, have also gained international fame," say Pulkit Arora & Simranjeet Singh, food consultants and directors, CYK Hospitalities.
Notably, this is the second consecutive time aloo baingan has been ranked poorly, having been listed among the world's 100 worst-rated foods earlier this year.
A Sociocultural Bias
Understandably, the unfair rankings have also irked food enthusiasts, who have shown their dissent with backlash on social media, with users disapproving of the list for its perceived lack of understanding and appreciation of Indian cuisine. One user remarked, "This list shows a complete lack of understanding. Our heirloom recipes, celebrating seasonal produce like gajjak and panta bhaat, are unfairly labelled as the worst. It's a misrepresentation of our rich culinary heritage."
Another remarked: "Aloo baingan is an emotion. Almost every Indian household has its own recipe for aloo baingan. Don't understand how and why you have put that up in the disliked list."
Interestingly, most of the worst-rated delicacies have seasonal and health significance. Many critics have remarked on the apparent North-South and 'veg-non-veg' biases. A close look at the 'worst' foods list shows that they were rated with little thought.
Who wouldn't vouch for jaljeera, one of the most popular appetisers in Indian cuisine? Rich with digestive properties, this drink helps in cooling our bodies during the harsh summer months. On the other hand, gajjak, made from sesame seeds and jaggery, is a festival delicacy and is eaten during the cold months of the year as it keeps the body warm. It's wildly popular in northern India.
The rankings also mention South's thengai sadam and achappam as one of the most disliked dishes. Both are eaten during festivals. And while Hyderabadi biryani is on the best-rated list, its accompaniment, the mirch ka salan, has been added to the 'worst' category. Naturally, this has baffled foodies, who can't eat one without the other.
The same is the story of panta bhaat. Made by fermenting rice, it is a comfort food for many in West Bengal, Odisha, and Assam, as well as in Bangladesh, as it suits the climatic conditions of these regions. That famous Bollywood drink, thandai, immortalised by actor Amitabh Bachchan in the Silsila (1981) song 'Rang barse', also finds itself on the worst list along with the malpua, a staple during festivals and wedding celebrations. The humble upma, once a south Indian breakfast but now a pan-India favourite, also finds itself in this list.
Honouring History
So, do we let amateurs and 'foreigners' - in short, people who don't understand our food - judge our rich delicacies preserved and passed through generations? "We need to share our love for food in a way that honours our diverse heritage. Let's amplify the voices of local chefs, home cooks, and food enthusiasts who know their region's cuisine best. Let's share stories of our grandmothers' secret recipes, our fathers' favourite dishes, and our own experiments in the kitchen. By sharing our personal connections to food, we can create a rich tapestry of culinary stories that showcase the true beauty of Indian cuisine," says Singh.
Sensitivity to cuisines and customs is important in building and strengthening cross-cultural relationships. Even for people who come from similar cultural backgrounds, food habits vary widely. Understanding food and its antiquity is important. Hopefully, the chefs and culinary experts the world over could be more open-minded about Indian palates.
(Bharti Mishra Nath is Contributing Editor, NDTV)
Disclaimer: These are the personal opinions of the author