South India's humble filter 'kaapi' bagged the second spot in a recent list of 'Top 38 Coffees In The World', curated by food and travel guide platform TasteAtlas. Filter coffee was second only to 'Cuban Espresso'. The world recognising the unique appeal of the coffee is indeed a recognition for this staple Indian beverage and lifestyle, which has been a way of life for centuries, especially in South India.
The elixir-like taste of filter coffee-and coffee in general-has now permeated other parts of the country as well, with its aroma spreading across the world.
The First Coffee Beans
The legend is that Baba Budan, a Sufi saint in the 16th century, went on a pilgrimage to Mecca. On his journey back from Mocha, Yemen, famous for Mocha Coffee beans, he smuggled back seven coffee beans secretly in his beard as it was illegal to transport green coffee beans out of the Arabian Peninsula. He planted those coffee beans in his courtyard in Chikmagalur in Karnataka, which is the birthplace of coffee in India.
There are many other stories related to the origin of filter coffee in India. Some believe it was the French and the Dutch who introduced coffee in the 17th century. However, it was with the arrival of the British in the mid-19th century that commercial coffee farming started flourishing.
In 1942, the Coffee Board of India was established to handle the supply of coffee in India. The Indian filter coffee was popularised by the Indian Coffee House established by the Coffee Board of India. Even today, coffee production in India is concentrated in the southern states, with Karnataka accounting for 71%, Kerala accounting for 21%, and Tamil Nadu accounting for 5% of all produce. Depending on the region in the south, filter coffee is known by a variety of names like 'Degree coffee', 'Mysore coffee', 'Madras coffee', among others.
Morning 'Kaapi', A Must
The aroma of rich and frothy Indian filter coffee marks the beginning of the day in most South Indian households today. Many set up the filter overnight so that they have freshly brewed coffee ready in the morning. 'Kaapi' is not just a beverage drink; it's a cultural heritage that has stood the test of time. In fact, according to reports, at the wedding of Bollywood actress Deepika Padukone (who hails from Bengaluru) and Ranveer Singh at Lake Como in Italy, guests were served filter coffee as a welcome drink!
"For me and my family, filter coffee made by my mother every morning is the best one. There is a multi-sensory experience steeped in this tradition. I have many memories attached to it. My mother bought the blend of coffee and chicory from a local coffee vendor," says Anu Prabhakar, a Kannada actress.
Roasting Beans
What sets Indian filter coffee apart is its distinctive blend, typically a combination of Arabica and Robusta beans of the highest quality sourced from the coffee plantations of South India. These coffee beans are roasted, ground, and blended with chicory roots, with coffee constituting 70%-80% and the chicory 30%-20% of the mixture. The slight bitterness and aroma of the chicory contribute to the flavour of Indian filter coffee.
"The Arabica beans provide a smoother, more aromatic flavour, while the Robusta beans add a strong, bitter kick and a thick, velvety texture to the brew. Added to it, the traditional roasting method for south Indian filter coffee imparts a very distinct smoky flavour to the beans, which is one of the prime characteristics of South Indian filter coffee," says Sunil Nair, CEO, Hug a Mug, who has been associated with the coffee industry for more than 20 years. "In fact, the grinding technique helps release more oils and flavours from the beans, resulting in a richer and more aromatic brew," he adds.
Brewing The Perfect Kaapi
In South India, the art of brewing a perfect cup of coffee has been passed down from generation to generation. Served in a stainless-steel/brass tumbler and a small saucer called 'dabara', it's not just about the taste but also about the experience. The process of pouring the coffee back and forth between the tumbler and 'dabara' to cool it down enhances the flavour and gives it a frothy top. This ritual remains an integral part of South Indian culture.
"The taste of filter coffee also depends upon the expertise of the person who is brewing and frothing it. There is a full taste to it which I can feel in my mouth," says actor Ashish Vidyarthi, a coffee aficionado, who has finished many a project on endless cups of filter coffee, including his latest stand-up comedy act. Comparing it with coffees that he has had at other places in the world, the actor says, "Indian filter coffee has a coarseness that other coffees don't. Not just the powder, but the whole process of making the filter coffee makes it unique and different from instant coffee or any other coffee in the world. They are all standardised, which I find boring."
The 'Darshini' Experience
Most loyalists in Bengaluru, Chennai and Hyderabad won't trade the filter coffee sold at local food outlets or 'darshinis' or tiffin rooms/kitchens for the fanciest of coffees at global chains. "In Bengaluru, I prefer to have filter coffee at local darshinis like Shanthi Sagar, Udupi Veg and Veena Stores. I remember, when we were young, my parents used to take me and my brother to Janata Hotel in Malleswaram every Sunday for masala dosa and filter coffee," reminisces Ms. Prabhakar.
Even Mr Vidyarthi doesn't miss having a quick bite at some of his favourite local food outlets when he is travelling. "Bengaluru and Chennai have the best filter coffee outlets. I usually grab one at Madras Coffee House at Chennai airport and in Bengaluru at Vidyarthi Bhavan, MTR and Veena Stores," he adds.
Despite the mushrooming of global coffee chains, filter coffee has sustained its originality, embedded itself in family traditions, and grown beyond South India. No wonder, one can even find it on the menu of a Starbucks today.
(Bharti Mishra Nath is a senior journalist)
Disclaimer: These are the personal opinions of the author.