The leather industry in Kolkata has raised concerns over the centre's trade law.
Marks and Spencer, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Nine West - top global brands are suddenly calling Kolkata in a panic: Will Kolkata's tanneries be able to supply their high-quality leather anymore after the ban on sale of cattle for slaughter at animal markets?
Industry insiders say, yes, but only till existing stocks last. Unless rolled back, the ban will mean death of the industry. Kolkata produces 20 per cent of leather in India and 58 per cent finished goods.
"The government has signed the industry's death certificate," said exporter and office bearer of the CLC Tanners Association, Imran Ahmed Khan.
"I am sorry to say the government has fooled us. Because of its promises, people have taken huge loans, made huge investments in the industry but are now at a loss at this man-made crisis," he added.
When Prime Minister Narendra Modi championed his government's Make in India scheme, leather goods was on top of his list and his government upped the export target - from 13 to 27 billion dollars by 2020. That is now a pipe dream, members of the industry say.
No slaughter means no hides for tanneries. West Bengal alone exports 50,000 to 60,000 tonnes of finished leather every month. But because of the ban, 200 tanneries could be forced to shut shop.
Top global brands source Bengal leather from Kolkata because of its superior quality. Zia Nafis, exporter of leather to Zara and Marks & Spencer, says, "From the day after the new rules were announced, I have got panic calls saying, will you be able to supply leather anymore? I have said I have some stocks. After that I don't know. But they are saying, what about Christmas orders?"
As for the human cost, 3.5 crore people live off leather. At tanneries, at factories that make finished goods like wallets, bags, belts, shoes and jackets. At factories that make machines and tools and chemicals for the leather industry.
Said Ram Lal Das, a leather worker, "Mr Modi has no time for us. He only goes to France, Germany, London. Now he has decided to finish the leather industry. Their slogan is labour hatao, desh bachao, garib ko hatao desh bachao."
Pankaj Prasad, a tannery supervisor, said, "My father worked at a tannery. I have inherited his job. I don't how to do anything else. If the tannery shuts down, I will die."
The Council of Leather Exports, CLC Tanners Association and the Indian Leather Products Association plan to meet Mamata Banerjee on the issue, who today called the centre's move "unconstitutional" and said the West Bengal could take the centre to court.