24 Hours In A Bangkok You Don't Often See, Beyond The Nightclubs And Skyscrapers

When we landed in Bangkok on a pleasant March morning, the skyscrapers were in check, the swimming pools hadn't yet turned into whirlpools, and Thailand was every bit the picture of peace that we know. The 7.7 earthquake was still a few weeks away. Bangkok, resplendent in the morning sun, was just about crackling to activity. 

The first stop on our four-day trip was a well-known jewel on the other side of the King's River - The Peninsula Bangkok.

The 37-storey Peninsula Bangkok. Photo: Peninsula Bangkok

Since 1998, this 37-storey building has dominated the Bangkok hotel scene, from hospitality to headlines. The Peninsula Bangkok is the proud receiver of many titles and awards. But it is really the warmth that sets it apart - the world-famous "Peninsula Promise" is evident in every breath you take here; from breakfast to a nightcap.

Take this: my one-night stay at the property came with a little self-inflicted snafu. In the process of dressing up for a dinner on the Chao Phraya, I dropped a heavy-heeled footwear on a toe. A blister followed. Now, under normal circumstances it would have meant no sweat, but not at The Peninsula. I had asked the team for a bandaid. Halfway through dinner, they got the resident nurse, a first-aid suitcase, and readied me for a minor surgery. Three of The Peninsula staff members sat around to talk me through the procedure - it wasn't needed; no, really; one pin-prick wasn't going to hurt, and I anyway had a glass of white to help; but who was I to interfere with their process.

So, while one of them held my hand; another asked me about the next morning's flight as the matronly nurse drained the blood from my toe. A dressing followed. I was escorted back to the dinner table where I dug back into dessert.

The longtail boats on the Chao Phraya are part of Bangkok's identity now. Photo: Peninsula Bangkok

Behind our dreamy table, it was business as usual on the Chao Phraya. The King's River. The artery of Bangkok. The river that carries an entire civilisation. The river that became a pop-culture force to reckon with after Roger Moore took a boat down it in The Man With The Golden Gun (1974). The river that is synonymous with Bangkok. You can sit for hours and gaze at the Chao Phraya; take your time to savour that name; soak in the scene in front of you as the river buzzes with dinner cruises; a stray DJ playing Bollywood music; the Skytrain atop it all; the night circus.

The rooms and suites at The Peninsula ensure no one misses the Chao Phraya. The tall glass windows are positioned behind the writing desk. As the morning light streams into the room and illuminates the river behind you, you can see the river glistening like it were liquid gold. Like Midas had touched it.

The Thai Suite. Photo: Peninsula Bangkok

The Peninsula's location makes it the stop to spend your time in in Bangkok. It is across the river from the golden-domed Lebua and its well-known balconies. While most other luxury hotels are on the east bank of the Chao Phraya, The Peninsula stands out from among the crowd because of its location on the west bank; in the Thonburi district.

Thonburi was the capital of the Kingdom of Ayutthaya till 1782. King Rama I, then newly enthroned, moved the capital to Bangkok, on the other bank of the Chao Phraya. The City-Pillar stakes were driven into the soil of Bangkok on April 21, 1782, and thus Thailand had a new capital.

Till 1971, Thonburi stayed an independent town and province. Then it was merged with Bangkok.

In Thonburi. Photo: Author

The new capital's manic energy, its business district, the Skytrain, progress, development, and the many glass-walled skyscrapers became its identity. Across the Chao Phraya, on the quieter side, remained Thonburi. The town got its name from Pali 'dhan' or wealth; and 'pura' or fortress. Dhanpura, Thonburi, Fortress of Wealth. 

Thonburi, the garrison town of Ayutthaya, is today an important landmark in Thailand's history. If the east bank is all about energy; the west is for quiet, meditative reflection, something that you can get a slice of during a walk down this district.

The Peninsula Bangkok's cultural walks take guests through a deep dive into Thonburi's culture and art scene. The many temples, shrines, palaces, art hubs - with the occasional glimpse of a monitor lizard basking by the canal - form the highlights of the tour. Every Wednesday and Saturday, for an hour or two, guests are taken down Thonburi on a complimentary guided tour; part of the hotel's 'Connecting With Thonburi' programme.

The Turtle Garden in Thonburi. Photo: Peninsula Bangkok

One of the high points of this walk is feeding the turtles at the Prayulwongsawat Temple's Turtle Garden. The lake here is home to thousands of turtles; one climbing on another's back to get a bite of food (or your toes). A stone hill on the pond serves as a resting spot for its inhabitants. Turtles, which symbolise longevity and good fortune, are cared for by locals, tourists, and monks alike. Spikes with tofu bites that the turtles bite out of, for 20 baht a box - not asking for too much for a healthy, happy life, no?

Back at The Peninsula, there's more of that happiness and wellness to partake of. A kombucha-making class, aqua fit, muay thai, sourdough making class, tak bart alms giving ceremony - take your pick from a range of wellness activities that the hotel has on offer for its guests. If retail is the therapy you subscribe to, the hotel stands next to IconSiam, Bangkok's most luxurious shopping mall. Think of all the high-end brands under the Thai sun, and you'll have them peeking out of the sailboat-like panes of the mall. Hop on one of The Peninsula's iconic boats for a five-minute ride to the mall and shop to your heart's delight.

The table at the Paribatra aviation lounge came from an airplane wing. Photo: Author

From among the bouquet of interesting spaces that the hotel has on offer, nothing beats the aviation lounge. The Paribatra lounge, named after Marshal-Admiral Paribatra Sukhumbandhu, Prince of Nakhon Sawan, is a tribute to Thai aviation. Thailand's first bomber aircrafts were named Paribatra (or Baribatra) after the Prince of Nakhon Sawan. 

The Partibatra lounge features a table that came from an airplane wing; a GE CF6-50 Turbofan aircraft engine; the Bristol Jupiter VI Radial aircraft engine (one of which powered Thailand's first Paribatra bomber in 1927); restrooms that are modelled on airplane toilets (but spacious); and insane views of the Bangkok skyline from the 37th floor. The lounge opens to the hotel's helipad. From the Royal Siamese Air Force to Thai Airways - military and commercial - you can take a high-flying Thai-flying history class here.

The engine that powered the first Paribatra bomber. Photo: Author

Down the byzantine elevators and switchboards that can put a cockpit to shame, The Peninsula's 34th floor is earmarked for the 3,885 sq-ft Peninsula Suite. 

Here, when you think luxury, think some more. 

The suite takes up half of the entire hotel floor. An array of Thai silks, antiques, Oriental carpets, crystal chandeliers and teakwood floors comprise the eponymous suite at The Peninsula - famous for hosting guests from Madonna to many unnamed ones; and its numerous accolades are a testament to just how stunning it is. The suite is completely private; reservations, et al.

The jacuzzi and the gym at The Peninsula Suite. Photo: Peninsula Bangkok

It has master and guest bedrooms, walk-in closets, a butler's room, a dining room, an expansive landscaped terrace where you can entertain guests or just stargaze when Bangkok's citylights dim for a minute. A jacuzzi overlooks the city; as does the treadmill in the en-suite gym. The bathrooms come with La Bottega amenities, and the hotel's sustainability promise means even the toiletries come in bite-sized metal tubes. The luxury is dizzying. Pinch and ground yourself by picking up a hardbound book from the coffee table. When you need a break from all the dazzle, peek into the suite's telescope to look at the stars.

Part of the charm of The Peninsula is its muted, quiet luxury in the heart of a chaotic city. The rooms are done up in tasteful, soft tones - nothing that strikes a false note. The cables are neatly tucked away in the wooden bedside drawers, the consoles comprise everything from switches for drapes to DND buttons. A chocolate scale model of The Peninsula's restored rice barge was a cute reminder of the world outside.

Inside, the world was perfect. Everything worked like clockwork; and life, a dream you did not want to be jolted awake from.

FACT SHEET

First Impressions: If you're taking the road from the Suvarnabhumi International Airport to The Peninsula Bangkok, expect an entry via the back gate of the hotel. The hotel faces the river. You'll be greeted with a warm namaste, greetings of "Sawadeeka", and a loop of jasmine, before you're whisked to your room. Try and get one on the higher floors - for the views, of course.

What To Do, Eat And Drink: The hotel has an array of activities, wellness programmes, and cultural walks to choose from. In addition, its many wedding packages are worth a mention.

Yum Sum O Goong at The Peninsula. Photo: Author

Dining options range from authentic Thai cuisine at Thiptara, to the River Cafe & Terrace's international fare, and Mei Jiang's Chinese Cantonese food. Try the afternoon tea at The Lobby and a drink at The Peninsula Pool Bar or the River Bar. (Recco: Don't miss the Yum Sum O Goong - the freshest pomelo salad you'll ever have!)

What Else: Thailand's tropical location means it is always hot - sometimes bearable; sometimes not. Follow the season calendar for a trip that doesn't, quite literally, sweat you out. Water bottles, loose clothes, portable fans - you know the drill. For the cultural walk, a dress code is in place. The hotel will help.

Why Go Now: The White Lotus-effect apart, the best bit of a visit to Thailand right now is its visa-free policy for Indian passport holders. You can hop on a flight from any of the metropolitans in India and land in Bangkok in a matter of three to four hours. Immigration is a breeze if there are no queues.

Thailand's Songkran festival, or the Thai New Year, is just round the corner (April 13-15, 2025). Culture, history, hospitality, and a treasure chest of stories in Thailand. What's not to like?