Designer Payal Khandwala On Bridal Fashion And Why Less Is Always More

The very first time I laid my eyes on a Payal Khandwala creation was back in 2013. Models with funky updos sashayed down the Lakme Fashion Week runway in a myriad of jewel-toned pieces and more than 5 years later, that memory stayed with me. Payal Khandwala's label has come a long way since then. Along with housing her jewellery line Tachi, it also finds frequent features in Bollywood. Time after time, superstars like Sonam Kapoor, Deepika Padukone, Dia Mirza and Priyanka Chopra have donned her regal creations.

But its celebrity quotient is a miniscule part of why her label has built its following. Since it launched in 2012, the label has carved itself a niche as one of quiet luxury. With a background in Fine Arts, Payal's love for rich palettes and traditional handwoven fabrics comes through. Centered around the contemporary woman, it speaks of refined tastes and subtle drama that doesn't come at the cost of comfort. At the launch of her Kala Ghoda store in Mumbai where she unveiled the Kashi collection, Payal Khandwala spoke to Swirlster about her beginnings in fashion, inspiration for her line and highlights through the years.

Designs from Payal Khandwala's collection Kashi

Kashi And Her Creative Beginnings

Payal gives us insight into her new collection, Kashi. "Kashi is the Sanskrit name for Benaras, which is one of the oldest historical cities in the world. Everything from the silk organza to the brocade are all woven in Benaras. Our focus has been on the weaves and how we can do more with them so I thought it would be nice to dedicate the collection to Benaras, which was a hotbed of spirituality, culture and artistry with poets, musicians and philosophers. The colours used are bright and saturated with engineered brocades"

Through the years and collections, striking shades have remained a constant in Payal Khandwala's label and there's a reason for it. "I painted ever since I was a little girl, as well as full-time before I was a designer. It's in my DNA and because I'm so comfortable with it, it translates easily when I'm designing clothes. As Indians, we do well with colour and we aren't apologetic about it, even our spices have it. Today it has become our signature look to have bold, colour-blocked silhouettes."

Designs from Payal Khandwala's collection Kashi

"Don't Lose Yourself In The Clothes"

For the brides-to-be, here's what Payal advises, "When in doubt, edit it out. On your main day, you tend to go overboard because it's that one day you always dreamed of. It's wise to pull back something like an accessory. When there's too much, you get lost and it becomes about the clothing and less about you. Try everything on, take a picture and decide if it feels like too much. Sometimes it's too much makeup, co-ordinated makeup, matching bags, bangles or earrings - it doesn't have to be so severe."

Fortunately, things seem to be looking up in the Indian wear sphere. "Less is more. People care about pairing things down and getting more out of what they buy like separates. They are very versatile and allow you to express your creativity. I hope that doesn't change because what we buy for weddings only sits in the closet and is a waste of money. When you don't purchase everything that matches, you can wear it with other clothing too. That way you get more bang for your buck," says Payal. Trends for Payal are a no-go. "Certain things work for certain personalities, shapes and body types. When people are dramatic, edgy or practical, they all dress a certain way. Trying to keep up with trends can become expensive, chaotic and frenzied."

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Kareena Kapoor in Payal Khandwala's designs

"Kareena Kapoor In Our Designs Went Viral"

The most memorable celebrity spotting in her own designs goes to Kareena Kapoor. Says Payal, "There have been many but when Kareena Kapoor wore our brocade kurta and lehenga, it went viral. So many people liked and commented on the post. They dressed like that and even dressed their kids like that. It blew my mind, how quickly that happened."

(Also Read: 5 Times Raveena Tandon Rocked The Colour Blocking Trend)

Watch the complete interview with Payal Khandwala on Swirlster here.