Photo Credit: Gaggan Anand
Much has been written about the evolution of Modern Indian cuisine over multiple phases. The first phase involved a refined French-style plating of Indian food, which then progressed to molecular gastronomy techniques, such as rasam foams and sous vide ribs. The most recent phase of 'modern Indian cuisine' is more complex, featuring unconventional ingredient pairings - often called "negative food pairing" by chefs - which create unique flavours.
However, I don't want to discuss modern Indian cuisine in the usual manner. Doing so would risk categorising this innovative and visionary cooking style as merely a type of cuisine that seems "Instagrammable" (often seen as gimmicky), given the trend of serving food in test tubes and light bulbs.
Modern Indian cuisine is not defined by liquid nitrogen or stuffing blue cheese into naan. In fact, it's not about the absence of traditional dishes like butter chicken or dal makhani from the menu. Instead, Modern Indian cuisine represents an imaginative culinary experience crafted with Indian flavours, ingredients, or techniques. It signifies a significant breakthrough for Indian food on the global stage, transforming and elevating India's gastronomy.
While it is well-known that Indian food encompasses more than just curries, tandooris, naans, and biryanis, the fascination with these traditional flavours remains strong. Yet, diner fatigue with repetitive dishes has paved the way for the emergence of Modern Indian cuisine.
Reimagining Traditional Food
I spoke with Gaggan Anand, the trailblazer of modern Indian cuisine. His eponymous restaurant in Bangkok has consistently ranked among the world's top 50 restaurants since its opening in 2010 and has also earned top honours in Asia's 50 Best Restaurants, along with two Michelin stars.
Anand prefers to call this culinary movement "progressive Indian food", emphasising that Indian cuisine has evolved significantly from its traditional forms. He finds it amusing that some chefs claim their dishes are "authentic" 100-year-old recipes, given that vegetables and spices have changed over time. "Food wasn't even cooked in ceramics or stainless steel cookware, nor was it prepared over stove fires," he notes. Therefore, the term "authentic" seems misplaced.
Anand defines Modern Indian cuisine as a personal memory of Indian food, reinterpreted with ingredients and techniques that evoke the experience of childhood dishes, such as 'Chhole Bhature', a favourite. It's a reimagining of traditional dishes with new, complex flavours.
Why 'Modern Indian' Restaurants Haven't Picked Up
Despite a few notable exceptions like Indian Accent, Trèsind Mumbai, The Bombay Canteen, and the recently emerging Naar and Ekaa, modern Indian restaurants in India have generally struggled to gain traction. Gaggan Anand believes that the main reason modern Indian cuisine hasn't been more widely accepted is that many Indians remain resistant to new interpretations of traditional dishes. "They would happily accept an Indian chef serving them a macaroon but would hesitate to try ghewar with strawberries," he says.
Adding to the issue are restaurants that chase the modern Indian label without understanding the underlying principles of flavour chemistry. Coriander foam as a garnish or flambéed gulab jamun, for instance, are often misrepresented as examples of modern Indian cuisine, leading to confusion about what this culinary style truly encompasses. Further dilution of modern Indian cuisine is evident in offerings like Maggi with cheese or paneer makhani pizza.
Modern Indian Cuisine is not merely a reinvention of Indian food for a Western palate, nor is it about softening the bold, spicy flavours typically associated with Indian dishes. Instead, it involves juxtaposing unique Indian ingredients-such as bhoot jholakia chillies, kokum, amaranth, and gucchi mushrooms-with renowned international ingredients like caviar, foie gras, truffles, quail eggs, and quinoa. This creates a medley of flavours that define a new cuisine being crafted by Indian chefs.
Beyond The Obvious
This approach appears to be the only way forward for Indian food. How long can Indian restaurants continue to serve dishes like Chettinad chicken, masala dosas, and tikkas? Many of the world's most popular cuisines are evolving by offering fresh takes on traditional dishes. For instance, Modern Japanese cuisine is experiencing a boom with innovations like Katsu sandwiches, tapas-style small plates called 'Japas,' and sushi burritos. Similarly, Modern Mexican cuisine is gaining popularity with creative dishes like bulgogi burritos, kimchi tacos, and Mexican fare enhanced with soy sauce and miso.
For chefs worldwide aiming to distinguish themselves, pushing culinary boundaries is essential. Moving beyond the familiar dishes found at home or in takeaways, and striving to create novel dining experiences, is key to establishing a unique identity. Authenticity in this innovation is what ultimately leads to recognition and acclaim.
(Zainab Sikander is a political analyst and columnist covering Indian politics since the last decade. She's an avid traveller and a bona-fide foodie.)
Disclaimer: These are the personal opinions of the author