Opinion | Khadi, An Indian Textile Heritage Worn With Pride

Khadi is a handspun and hand-woven cotton cloth that originated in India and is considered an important national icon of the country's freedom struggle. Sonia Gandhi accused the Modi government of neglecting the khadi tradition by allowing polyester flags, mostly imported from China. She and her inner circle refuse to accept the fact that the Modi government's 'Har Ghar Tiranga Campaign' created a demand rise that a single authorised Khadi flag manufacturing plant could not have met. Hence, polyester is also used in the production of national flags, in addition to khadi. About 25 crore flags are needed yearly, according to Union Culture Secretary Govind Mohan. Self-help groups (SHGs) have now taken over the majority of the production from large vendors, turning them into a thriving industry that makes and sells the majority of the national flags. India Post sold nearly a crore national flags through post offices and online channels in 10 ten days in 2022, indicating both the extraordinary demand and the ability of the new production model to meet it.

India has recorded more than four times growth in the sale of khadi products in the last eight years of PM Modi's government. As for the global audience, the fabric has found much favour with local and overseas customers, especially after PM Modi raised the pitch for self-reliance. Khadi has become a fashion choice not only in India but internationally too, thanks to innovation in fabrics. The sale of Khadi fabrics surged in 2023-24 at ₹6,496 crore, a 500% increase over the sales level of ₹1,081 crore in the financial year 2013-14. Khadi fabrics worth ₹5,943 crore were sold in the financial year 2022-23. From the US and the UK to Europe, and Dubai, promotional initiatives have propelled Khadi's global reach. In 2017-18 alone, India's handloom product exports reached $355.9 million, with the US, the UK, Spain, Italy, and France constituting the largest markets.

Khadi, an indigenous, hand-spun fabric, has been gaining popularity globally due to its uniqueness and translucent quality. Some believe that Khadi's unique qualities-including its distinct history and identity, understated opulence and charm, handcrafted methods, and the fact that no two meters are alike-give it the potential to become a modern luxury fabric. In his Mann Ki Baat monthly radio broadcast, Modi said a lot of people who previously would not have worn Khadi products now do so with great pride. The motto, according to PM Modi, is 'Khadi for nation, Khadi for fashion', signifying that Khadi can serve as both a fashion statement and a symbol of pride in one's country. PM Modi further said in the Mann ki Baat episode that when we buy a Khadi product, we light up the lives of lakhs of weavers who toil day and night to produce it.  This shows the commitment of the present government towards rural India, under the leadership of the Prime Minister.

The Indian government has been attempting to establish Khadi as a global brand and boost exports of Khadi goods. Steps taken by the government include the registration of the Khadi trademark in five nations-Germany, the UK, Australia, Russia, and China-as well as measures to stop the Khadi brand name from being misused abroad. Additionally, Khadi's popularity has been rising as a result of efforts to appeal to younger people. For instance, the Centre of Excellence for Khadi (CoEK) and Khadi Institutions have been collaborating to develop new clothing lines with eye-catching hues and intriguing silhouettes.

However, some claim that Khadi's high price and limited availability make it more difficult for the brand to succeed in the global fashion market.  

At a meeting held by Congress president Sonia Gandhi in 2021, Rahul Gandhi had questioned the relevance of the Congress party constitution insisting on wearing khadi to become a Congress member - an ironic background to Sonia Gandhi's latest op-ed in The Hindu. 

The total employment in Khadi and village industries stood at 1.87 crore in 2023-24, higher than the 1.3 crore till financial year 2013-14. According to a statement from the Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC), sales under its administrative supervision increased to ₹1.5 lakh crore in the fiscal year 2023-2024, from ₹1.3 lakh crore the year before. Under the Ministry of Micro, Small, and Medium Enterprises, KVIC is a statutory entity tasked with promoting khadi fabric and providing jobs for rural craftsmen.

Despite being long neglected by the Congress administration, this eco-friendly fabric has now found a market and a special place in the hearts of end users. Its appeal, thanks to the Modi government's dedicated efforts, has grown not only in India but also across the world. 

(The author is a national spokesperson of the BJP)

Disclaimer: These are the personal opinions of the author