Shopping for apparel is no longer a source of retail therapy for many women and girls in India. Instead, it has become an unpleasant and stressful chore, often involving multiple trips to the fitting room in search of the perfect size. Any help from busy sales assistants usually prompts the confusing question: "What is your size - UK or US?" This baffling question, coupled with long queues for fitting rooms, serves as a deterrent for women shoppers.
That said, men don't have it any easier! They simply face fewer options. India is home to a diverse population with a variety of shapes, sizes, ethnicities, and body types. Imposing UK, Euro, US, or arbitrary metrics on such a vast population is a longstanding injustice waiting to be addressed.
According to a recent announcement by the textile minister, India will soon introduce "INDIA size", a new sizing system tailored to better suit Indian body types, moving away from UK and US sizes. Additionally, a new footwear sizing system called "Bha" is under development. Current UK and US shoe sizes often fail to provide a good fit, leading to discomfort, injuries, and even deformities. The "Bha" system is expected to be implemented sometime next year.
Recognising the gap, the textile ministry initiated a project in 2018 to scan and measure 25,000 men and women aged 15 to 65 across six major cities. This extensive study aims to create a size chart that reflects the "unique Indian body structure". The survey, known as Size India, was to be conducted by the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) and was scheduled for completion by 2021. However, delays due to COVID-19 and other factors have pushed back the timeline.
Measuring Scientifically
For the 3D scanning process, NIFT set up three full-body scanners in New Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Hyderabad, Bengaluru, and Shillong.
The anthropometric data gathered from individuals of all genders and cultures aged 15 to 65 in these cities has been standardised for the benefit of both customers and garment sellers.
"India is a highly anthropometrically diverse country. With a large sample size from the NIFT study, it will be interesting to create different specifications for various subcategories of merchandise and regions," says Shafqat Nabi, a brand and fashion management professional who previously led a similar study in Bengaluru.
He adds, "This could also assist businesses targeting localised markets and niche segments, including age and fashionability. Clothes should fit people, not the other way around."
Similarly, a survey of Indian foot sizes was recently conducted as part of a larger project aimed at developing a national footwear sizing system.
Reports indicate that the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) collaborated with the Chennai-based Central Leather Research Institute (CLRI) to conduct a study involving 100,000 individuals. The study concluded that, on average, Indian feet are wider than those of Europeans or Americans. As a result, many Indians have been wearing shoes that are a size too large due to the narrow options available in UK, European, or US sizing systems.
The study also highlighted that the average Indian owns 1.5 to 2 pairs of footwear, and given India's status as the world's most populous country, it represents one of the largest markets and manufacturers of shoes. Major global brands, including those in sportswear, are eager to capitalise on this opportunity.
Cultural Preferences
Industry experts argue that a standardised size chart for Indian garments and footwear will benefit both consumers and the apparel industry by reducing the number of exchanges and returns due to incorrect sizing-a significant hassle and financial burden.
With the rise of e-commerce, ordering clothing online presents an even greater challenge regarding sizing, due to the inconsistencies among local and international brands. Finding consistent sizing across different brands in India is difficult, as each may use different methods to calculate body shapes and sizes.
After a long wait, when clothes don't fit, customers are often left disappointed and may be deterred from purchasing from that brand again.
An Indian size chart can take into account cultural preferences, allowing for relaxed fits in traditional outfits like sarees, blouses, kurtas, and salwar kameez, rather than perfectly tailored garments.
"The cost of not having sizing references has been enormous, both for the industry and consumers. India's clothing preferences are rapidly shifting from draped wear-where minor stitching could be handled by local tailors-to Western wear," Nabi explains.
Both INDIA size and Bha have the potential to disrupt the garment and footwear industries, respectively. However, transitioning to the new system may face resistance and confusion from consumers due to unfamiliarity. Manufacturers and retailers will need to discard existing catalogues and stocks and adapt to new manufacturing protocols and inventory management systems. Extensive consumer education will be essential for a smooth transition to the new system, which should also strive for international credibility.
"Once implemented, measurement details should be clearly indicated on products, and consumers should be educated about their use and relevance. This will enhance trust in size charts and lead to higher conversion rates," advises Nabi.
When standardised size charts are implemented, Indians will finally be relieved from wearing overly long, ill-fitting, or tight footwear. Similarly, trying on a dress will no longer cause fitting room fatigue, as the buying process becomes more scientific, seamless, and enjoyable.
(The author is Contributing Editor, NDTV)
Disclaimer: These are the personal opinions of the author