When Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky arrived at the White House for his meeting with US President Donald Trump on that fateful Friday, he could never have imagined the public dressing-down that would follow.
Among other grievances that ‘tragic' day (February 28), President Trump and his deputy, JD Vance, took issue with Zelensky's choice of attire. They believed that by not wearing a suit, he was failing to ‘respect the dignity of their office'.
Clad in a military-style black sweatshirt adorned with the Ukrainian trident, Zelensky believed he was appropriately dressed for the occasion. Since the Ukraine-Russia war broke out three years ago, he has frequently travelled between countries, meeting world leaders in his now-signature outfit.
He has deliberately shunned suits, button-down shirts, and ties since the Russian invasion began in 2022 as a gesture of solidarity with Ukraine's front-line troops.
In a multicultural world, nations have their own formal dress codes. Should a suit and tie be considered the only official attire for world leaders? Would such a demand not amount to cultural insensitivity—if not outright bullying?
Bizarre Scrutiny
Dressed in his statement attire, Zelensky walked into the crucial meeting, surrounded by men in sharp suits—Trump, Vance, and a press corps equipped with pointed questions. One of these was about his outfit.
Zelensky had travelled to Washington to ease tensions between the two countries. Instead, the meeting turned into a televised slanging match, with Trump and Vance using the Oval Office as their stage. Reports suggest that US officials had previously advised Zelensky's team to opt for formal attire, advice he seemingly ignored.
Ukraine is heavily dependent on American military support in its fight against Russia. Yet, following Trump's Oval Office outburst, a disgruntled President wasted no time in suspending military aid to Ukraine.
In Western politics, a well-tailored suit has traditionally been the standard attire for leaders, particularly men, at high-profile meetings and global summits. However, Trump's administration has been one of the most informal in history, with high-profile visitors often dressed casually.
Tech billionaire Elon Musk, a frequent visitor to the Oval Office, has repeatedly ditched the suit in favour of black T-shirts, jeans, leather jackets, and even the occasional baseball cap. Musk, who heads the US government's Department for Government Efficiency (DOGE), has defied convention at every turn—including bringing his son to the Oval Office last month.
Musk even attended Trump's first cabinet meeting in his usual casual outfit while others adhered to the formal dress code. Perhaps his hundreds of millions in campaign donations secured him a free pass. One wonders why the same reporter who questioned Zelensky's attire never once challenged Musk's. On the contrary, MAGA supporters and sections of the media have justified Musk's nonchalance.
Fashion Diplomacy
The West has always been conscious of fashion diplomacy. The outfits worn by world leaders are scrutinised by both the media and style analysts for the statements they make. While Western leaders often favour classic suits, political leaders elsewhere embrace attire that reflects their cultural heritage.
Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi is a prime example—his sartorial choices showcase India's rich traditions. During visits to Western nations, including the US, Modi has been seen in colour-coordinated kurtas, churidars, half-jackets, and bandhgala suits. In fact, just before Zelensky's visit, Modi had met Trump wearing his signature white kurta, churidar, and grey bandhgala.
In 2018, during Trump's first term, the US President warmly welcomed Saudi Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman in his traditional Saudi attire without objection.
Female leaders have faced even greater scrutiny for their clothing choices. British Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher was known for her power dressing, often wearing tailored skirt suits to project authority. Meanwhile, Indira Gandhi, clad in her traditional sari, exuded strength and determination in her meetings with world leaders.
Among memorable global leaders, one recalls:
- Nelson Mandela, renowned for his colourful printed shirts.
- Hamid Karzai, former Afghan president, known for his distinctive green and purple signature chapan (cloak) and sheepskin hat.
- Fidel Castro, who wore military fatigues as a symbol of his revolutionary stance.
- Muammar Gaddafi, who favoured flashy military outfits.
Even Kim Jong Un has used fashion as a strategic tool—wearing Mao-style suits for meetings with Trump but switching to Western suits when meeting Russian President Vladimir Putin. His attire subtly signalled his approach towards each leader.
Between 2022 and 2024, Zelensky visited the White House multiple times to meet President Joe Biden—always wearing his olive green or black military-style shirts. Yet, back then, nobody raised a question. So, why now?
World leaders should prioritise substance and collaboration over petty optics. By ridiculing Zelensky's clothing choice, US leaders have pandered to the gallery—hitting a state guest below the belt. If Elon Musk can turn up to the White House in a T-shirt and jeans without scrutiny, then surely a war-time leader like Zelensky deserves the same courtesy.
Rather than fixating on who wears what, global leaders should focus on what truly matters.
(The author is Contributing Editor, NDTV)
Disclaimer: These are the personal opinions of the author
