Researchers in Iran have unveiled an artefact that could rewrite the history of cosmetics. What was initially believed to be a small vial of deep red paste has now been identified as an ancient tube of lipstick, dating back nearly 4,000 years. This find, detailed in Scientific Reports, sheds light on the cosmetology practices of the Marhasi civilization, what is now eastern Iran.
According to the study, the lipstick dates to between 1936 and 1687 BCE. The delicate container first surfaced in 2001, when the Halil River in Iran flooded several ancient graveyards in the southeastern part of the country and dislodged items from the burials. It was later housed in the Archaeological Museum of Jiroft, as per Smithsonian Magazine.
For the study, the researchers extracted the "loose, dark purple fine powder" and began testing its chemical makeup. Their analysis revealed that the powder is made of hematite, manganite, braunite, galena, anglesite and plant-based waxes. This mixture, researchers said, "bears a striking resemblance to the recipes of contemporary lipsticks".
The delicate container, crafted with "fine incisions", is made of greenish chlorite, as per the study. While the container's style resembles other chlorite artefacts from the ancient Jiroft culture, other characteristics are unique, researchers said.
"The size and shape of the vial were completely different from those of other cosmetic vials from the same period," study co-author Massimo Vidale said. The product's appearance "supports the idea that cosmetic products in ancient times were branded, packaged and traded in standard types of containers with specific forms, allowing for easy visual identification," just like contemporary cosmetics, the study authors wrote.
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Further, as per the research, the lipstick may have once been fragrant as it contained vegetal fibres, which could have been added to produce a scent.
Researchers said that although now they know more about the vial's contents, its owners remain mysterious.
Speaking to Smithsonian Magazine, Mr Vidale said that cosmetics are an often overlooked branch of ancient metallurgy. "The scarce attention paid to this ancient Bronze Age industry, I believe, is due to the fact that it has been considered a secondary 'women's matter'".
"In contrast, it was a costly expression of luxury that played a crucial role in shaping social interaction in the hierarchies of the early cities," he added.
