On a cold winter evening in the Himalayas, we gather around a campfire at Sterling Corbett to watch Kumaoni folk dances. Young men and women move gracefully to the rhythm as the fire crackles, keeping us warm. Suddenly, a bull appears in the middle of the dance, electrifying the atmosphere. It turns out to be two men in a bull costume, playfully charging at the audience. Children shriek in delight, while the timid - like me - are startled.
A farmer sings in praise of the bull's strength and hard work. In essence, he is grateful that it helps him plough his field. Moved by this display of harmony between humans and animals, I decided to look at the other side of the story - the human-wildlife conflict in and around Corbett National Park.
A Hearty Breakfast And A Village Walk
Over a delicious Kumaoni breakfast of masala puri, aloo ke gutke, lauki ka raita, and achar, the Resort Manager, Mr Prakash Khatri, presents a list of Sterling Corbett's Experiences. I choose the Village Walk. As Kundan is in charge of these experiences, he leads our small group of four.
The car stops where the road ends. A sprightly Sampurnanand Sundarial, the village head, welcomes us with a beaming smile. We trek through uneven terrain, trailing behind our agile host, who moves with the speed of a gazelle.
Arriving At Jamaariya Village
After an invigorating hike, Jamaariya village comes into view, its houses built with stacked stone and topped with slate roofs. Sampurnanand's wife, Saroj Devi, their daughter Vaishali, and niece Shivani greet us warmly outside their beautifully preserved ancestral home, painted a vibrant shade of blue. Built in 1951, it boasts carved pillars and arched doorways-a striking example of Kumaoni heritage.
Seated in front of their home, sipping hot chai as jungle babblers chatter and house sparrows chirp, I casually ask if tigers ever wander into their neighbourhood.
Living With Tigers: A Daily Reality
Sampurnanand replies coolly.
"We encounter tigers but do not get scared. We try to stay safe and make it a point to remain indoors after 9.30 pm. Tigers roam nearby; sometimes, we hear their roars close by. They avoid people, but when we are asleep, they take away our calves. When hornbills give an alarm call, we know a tiger is around. If we face a tiger, we stand still, let it pass, and only then do we move."
He continues,
"In 2022, a tiger attacked a woman cutting grass near the village temple in broad daylight at 9.30 am. Hearing her screams, villagers gathered and threw stones at the animal. She lost an eye, her body was badly injured, but she recovered in three months. Nowadays, more tigers are seen as the trees have grown, providing them with more cover. Also, the zoo authorities release old tigers here, and they become man-eaters."
The terrifying story leaves me unnerved. Sensing the shift in mood, Kundan changes the topic and tells the family that I want to learn how to make Mandua rotis - a Kumaoni staple - on a firewood stove. The women smile and agree to teach me.
A Glimpse Into Kumaoni Farming
Before we start, Saroj Devi takes me to her small garden adjacent to the house. A bamboo fence draped with old sarees provides extra protection. However, deer frequently raid it.
"Prey animals enter our village to escape tigers, and the predators follow," she laments.
She grows mustard, garlic, onions, chillies, tomatoes, brinjals, mint, and coriander for daily use. Plucking some mint and chillies, she prepares for a traditional Kumaoni chutney.
Back at the house, I brace myself for more tiger tales.
Growing Up In Tiger Territory
Shivani and Vaishali recall their childhood,
"Our school was 7 km away, so we always walked in groups. Earlier, tigers were rarely seen near our village. But in the last two years, since the trees have not been cut, there is more cover for them to hide."
Shivani bursts out laughing as she remembers,
"About seven or eight years ago, for the first time, we saw a tiger fighting with a cow. When people pelted stones, the tiger ran away."
Both women are now married and visit their parents during holidays. Shivani has a three-year-old daughter, Shanvi, while Vaishali's son, Ashish, is in Class One, and her newborn daughter is just a month old. Since she was married young and had to discontinue her studies, Vaishali is now training to become a naturalist.
A Family Full Of Stories
Meanwhile, Sampurnanand's elder brother, Vinod Kumar Sundarial, and his wife, Manju Devi, join us, eager to share their experiences.
"Four months ago, I saw a tiger with cubs from as close as 15 feet. I called out to my labourers to come and see!"
Was he scared?
"What is there to be scared of? The tigers are scared of us!" he chuckles.
Manju Devi adds,
"During Navratri, I see a tiger every day as it takes this route. For nine days, it sits near the village temple, has darshan of Shiva and Durga, then moves to another temple. It never harms anyone while coming, but on its way back, it hunts for prey!"
Though sceptical, I listen with amusement as Saroj Devi supports this claim, stating that she has witnessed this annual event.
Making Mandua Rotis And Bhang Ki Chutney
As we talk, Saroj Devi washes her silbatta (grinding stone), dry roasts bhang seeds (hemp seeds), and begins grinding them. She explains,
"They are rich in protein, omega, and amino acids. They do not have any psychoactive effect when consumed."
She adds mint, salt, and chillies, blending them into a smooth paste. Bhang ki chutney is ready.
Meanwhile, Shivani lights the choolah (firewood stove).
I excitedly tell them that cooking on firewood has been a lifelong dream. They smile, perhaps amused by my fascination. Shivani hands me the rolling pin. As I try rolling perfect circles, they cheer me on. I place the roti on the hot tava, flipping it with tongs while Shivani expertly uses her bare hands. She skillfully controls the fire, adjusting the wood and blowing air through a pipe to intensify the flames.
Saroj Devi takes out a container of cow ghee, generously spreading it over the hot rotis and serving them with jaggery and bhang ki chutney. The smoky aroma, the earthy flavours, and the warmth of this simple meal will stay with me forever.
As I bid farewell to Jamaariya, I take with me not just the taste of Mandua rotis, but also the resilience and warmth of its people. Their stories, traditions, and unwavering spirit make this Village Walk an experience to cherish.
About the Author: Hyderabad-based Vijaya is a freelance journalist and documentary filmmaker, who specialises in the study of art, culture, and wildlife.
