Budheswar Bodo knows Assam's Manas National Park like the back of his hand. A "wildlife protector" for the past 15 years, the 45-year-old begins each day with an evening drill and briefing to fellow volunteers deep inside the woods. He knows that if it's not for those like him, the wildlife reserve will lose all its inhabitants to poachers who sneak in under the cover of the darkness.