One year ago, flash floods rocked Kedarnath and Uttarakhand, in which thousands of people lost their lives and left the state infrastructure in tatters. We return as pilgrims to trek up this incredibly difficult pilgrimage and see how things have improved on the ground. What are the difficulties in rebuilding and reconstruction? How is this tourism dependent region surviving where tourist flow has reduced to a fraction? Sidharth Pandey finds out on the ground.