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Suffocating yet heady aroma of Old Delhi

Delhi's walled city still draws thousands of visitors eager to soak in 400 years of history - alive in the sprawling havelis. But the old city is gradually crumbling and the decline is hard to miss. Unas Jaffri, a professor of Persian says, "There was a city, famed throughout the world. Fate looted it and laid it desolate, to that ravaged city I belong."

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