Chatter muffled as members of a secret society, masked and garbed in honey-coloured robes, entered the court of Foumban, the historic capital of a centuries-old kingdom nestled in hilly northwestern Cameroon.
The 20th king of the Bamoun people, Mouhammad Nabil Mfourifoum Mbombo Njoya, stood up from his ornate throne -- a replica of the original, now at a German museum -- for the ancient ritual to get under way.
The nearly 600-year-old tradition sees him put on public trial over his governance -- with local chiefs reading out indictments destined to put his popularity to the test.
The tradition is part of a set of rituals taking place over a week in a bid to promote dialogue, harmony and peace.
The ceremony is a first for Mbombo Njoya, 31, who took over the throne after his father died in 2021.
If deemed to have failed, the monarch could be fined or removed from office. But if he succeeds, he is granted a new mandate and allegiance.
Tourists and officials last week flocked to the remote, grassy region of the West African country to attend Nguon, a set of royal rituals that date back to 1384, when the kingdom was founded.
The rites, which are followed by celebrations, had not taken place in six years due to the Covid-19 pandemic and other factors, but were recognised in December 2023 by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage.
The Bamoun territory, which is home to the ethnic group of the same name, is one of the oldest traditional kingdoms in sub-Saharan Africa.
GRIEVANCES
Constituents of the brotherhood shrouded in secrecy planted their spears into the ground as the young ruler braced for his people's opinions and grievances.
"Your Majesty, the people are very preoccupied with the dilapidation of the kingdom's property assets," a Bamoun lawmaker told his monarch before the attentive crowd.
"So far there is only one queen by the king's side in the court," said another parliamentary, as laughter and clapping broke out.
But the king survived the session and earned the approval of his people.
Warriors and members of the royal guard fired their rifles into the air in celebration.
ROLE REVERSAL
"I really enjoyed how there is this role reversal and he is judged by his people. I thought it was just going to be a pretend judgment but the judgment was really severe, I was surprised," said Roly Allen, a 46-year-old businessman who travelled from London to attend.
"There was a lot of good humour and I thought it really demonstrates a real love between the kingdom and the king," said the British tourist, proudly boasting a traditional Bamoun headdress.
For some locals, the ritual is an important occasion to connect with their culture.
"I am very proud to be Bamoun, these are moments that allow us to learn about our culture and pass it on to our children," said Amadou Njoya, a 21-year-old native of Foumban.
Cameroon's 270 ethnic groups, with various customs and languages, are organised into more than 80 kingdoms and sultanates.
The importance of customary law and the sense of belonging to these chiefdoms have withstood the test of time and remain key parts of the lives of many of Cameroon's 28 million people.
"The first Nguon of the 20th king was an event not to be missed," said Mariam Poughouo, a Bamoun company manager based in France.
Poughouo, who is passionate about tradition, described the king as "a great fighter who fights for the preservation of culture".
Yet the chiefdom is still missing its original throne, said Hamidou Ntieche, an elderly village chief in Bamoun territory.
'LOBBYING' FOR THRONE
Like many African cultural antiques, the treasured artefact was taken to Europe under unclear circumstances during the colonisation of Cameroon.
The colourful, pearl-inlaid wooden chair is now exhibited at the Humboldt Forum Museum in Berlin, after its transfer during the Germany colonial period in Cameroon.
The monarch visited it last year -- and sat on the heirloom that once belonged to his great-grandfather.
But the Bamoun people are attempting to recover the original, Azize Mbouho, the Bamoun palace's communications advisor, told AFP.
In April, the royal family inaugurated the spacious Museum of the Bamoun Kings, a building shaped like its imposing coat of arms -- a two-headed snake and a furry spider -- and designed to house thousands of objects spotlighting its rich heritage.
Alexis Njivah Mouliom, general secretary of the Nguon foundation, hopes that becoming UNESCO-listed can bring "publicity" to the Bamoun community and "strengthen lobbying for the return of the throne".
