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This Article is From Oct 12, 2010

Zambia's train safari

Livingstone: The Mulobezi line in Zambia has been used for transporting timber in the Southern Province of Zambia since the 1920's. Set up privately by the Zambezi Sawmills company, the track stretches some 286 kilometres (178 miles).

One logging train a week still runs on the line, but these days tracks are also used by tourist trains. This grand old steam locomotive was built in Glasgow in 1926. Today it's being driven and maintained by train driver, Divus Ngandu.

Ngandu has been driving trains including diesels and steam locomotives since 1966, but says steam trains are much more fun. "Actually I drove a diesel electric locomotive, but I was not enjoying it the way I am enjoying driving steam engines. Because diesel electric is just like a car, he explains. But this one there are a lot of components that you have to touch, here and there, in order for it to move."

Coal is fed into the firebox which heats water from a boiler. The resulting pressurised steam drives pistons which in turn make the wheels turn.

It takes five to six hours to get the steam locomotive started and the boiler only cools down four days after use.

Among Ngandu's tasks is to top up the oil and re-grease the engine after every 30 kilometre (18.6 mile) trip, to ensure a maximum lubrication of moving parts.

Ngandu will also report any problems to the train's manager Ben Costa.

Costa has been maintaining and reconditioning steam locomotives since 1979. He says if you look after them properly, the old trains could run forever.

"They are very old, almost a hundred years old, and they're still moving. If we take care of them, if we nurse them properly, they will go forever," he says.

Finding spare parts, though, is a different story.

The spare parts we have to make them, we have to make them. You can't find them, you've got to make them, he says.

Parts made from scratch for the Royal Livingstone Express include brass and copper boiler mountings and copper pipes.

The coaches were refurbished at Rovos Rail in Pretoria, South Africa.

Passengers arrive at the Royal Livingstone Express Station to experience the train and its culinary delights most evenings at around 5pm.

The train takes them through the Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park, with the opportunity of seeing wildlife, including elephants, along the way.

In the kitchen, chef Jerrick Muleya is preparing starters of blue cheese salad.

"In this kitchen, it's small but we can do up to 90 people in this train," he says.

Some of the dishes are prepared prior to departure at the Royal Livingstone Hotel.

Anuj Ovalekar is the hotel's senior Sous Chef.

"Over here we are going to be preparing one of the dishes that we serve on the Royal Livingstone Express," he says.

The braised lamb simmers for 12 hours, while the potatoes are cut into cubes and also slow cooked.

The glazed carrots are prepared in a pan with water and butter.

"Well, it might sound like a very simple dish, but trust me when you try it, you're just going to fall in love with that dish," says Ovalekar.

South African Nicole McCreedy says she has enjoyed the steam train and its luxury dining experience.

"We did the train journey - it's in the early evening. So you get it just as the sun's setting which is very very beautiful, in the bush, basically. And just the motion of the train - it's something very unique, there's a rocking sensation. Also the service is excellent," she says.

For many people there is nothing like the magic of the steam train experience, particularly when its allied to fine dining and fantastic wildlife.

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